The gallivanting gourmet

Want to eat your way across the menu of South Africa’s fabulous food destinations? Richard Holmes suggests a few ports of call to whet your appetite

FOODIE TRAWLS

Neighbourgoods Market, Cape Town and Joburg
It’s famous for making food markets cool again. From ciabattas and chocolates to meringues and mozzarella, hand-picked food producers and farmers sell their wares every Saturday morning in Woodstock and Braamfontein. You won’t find any mass-produced, run-of-the-mill goods on offer – expect fresh, healthy (and sometimes decadent) treats. It gets crowded quickly, so if you want to browse before the masses arrive, be there by 8:30 am.

Go if you don’t mind forking out for good food. The produce doesn’t come cheap, but then quality always comes at a price. You’ll find handcrafted wines, artisanal beers, hearty steak rolls and delicious piroschka (similar to a pizza, but less cheesy) along with dozens of other edible options in the ‘restaurant’ area. Also look out for regular festivals celebrating beer, coffee and all things gastronomic.

Victoria Street Market, Durban
It’s famous for being only a short drive from Durban’s CBD, but feeling like you’ve just travelled into the heart of India. Here you’ll find a large majority of KwaZulu-Natal’s Indian community, in an ornate market where more than 160 stalls sell saris, ceramics, scarves and, of course, spices. The heady aromas of turmeric, cardamom, chilli and coriander assault the senses with every step. So for an olfactory wander, ‘The Vic’ is not to be missed. Go if you can’t stand the thought of leaving Durban without the makings of a DIY curry, or want to perfect a potent vindaloo. It’s a crowded, bustling locale though, so keep an eye on your possessions.

SATISFYING STOPOVERS
West Coast, Western Cape
It’s famous for windy days and wide beaches, but above all, the West Coast has some of the world’s best seafood restaurants situated right on those sandy shores. And best of all, it won’t cost you the Earth to tuck into the fruits of the sea when you pull into Muisbosskerm (near Lambert’s Bay) or Die Strandloper (just outside Langebaan). These open-air, beachfront eateries offer a similar feast: a plentiful and mouth-watering buffet, with fish straight from the sea on the braai, crusty farm bread, home-made preserves, a potjie or two and crayfish. Go if you enjoy food with a view and wiggling your toes in the sand while scooping mouthfuls of fish with a mussel shell.

Prince Albert, The Karoo
It’s famous among those who’re in the know. To everyone else it’s just another Karoo dorpie, but look a little closer and you’ll find a dairy farm in the desert, the best restaurants north of the Swartberg, backyard vineyards making award-winning wines, a cooking school that’s all Swedish cool and African warmth, and a delightful weekend farmers’ market. The best bit? It’s not overrun with visitors, so get there before it becomes tourist central.

Go if you drool over farm-fresh, wholesome food, want to count the stars in the clear Karoo skies, don’t mind the heat in summer and frosty mornings in winter, and if you like your lamb free-range and your milk still warm. It’s the perfect break on your N1 road trip or a gourmet getaway on its own.

Stellenbosch, Western Cape
It’s famous for being the poorer cousin of fancy-pants Franschhoek around the corner, but the times are a-changing. The leafy streets of Stellenbosch and the lush green vineyards surrounding this historic university town are now home to some of the top-rated restaurants in the country. Splash out at Terroir, where chef Michael Broughton’s deceptively simple approach to food will leave you intrigued, or soak up the gorgeous views from Long Table. Around the corner you’ll find Bertus Basson’s innovative Overture, while down in the dorp there’s artisanal bread to munch on at De Oude Bank Bakkerij.

Go if you are tired of dodging Porsches and motorbike clans on their breakfast run through Franschhoek. You’ll find fine dining without the fuss, vineyard views in almost every direction and oak-lined streets, which weave through SA’s second oldest town, to stroll along while you walk off that chocolate pudding.

Interesting bites

The Turner family has been braaiing up a seafood storm at Muisbosskerm for more than 25 years.
Michael Broughton, the award-winning chef at Terroir, is entirely self-taught.
Opened in 1862, the town library in Prince Albert was one of the first in the country. The quaint
Fransie Pienaar Museum is still home to a book
containing Prince Albert’s speeches that was sent to the townsfolk by Queen Victoria herself in 1867.
Turmeric – the spice that gives curry powder a deep yellow colour – is rich in antioxidants and has even been linked to reducing cholesterol and preventing Alzheimer’s.

Double click

www.durban.kzn.org.za
www.muisbosskerm.co.za
www.neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za
www.patourism.co.za
www.stellenboschtourism.co.za
www.strandloper.com